FOBs & Building

Numbers

Why it works

You do not need to bring a single pallet to stand up a SAM site. The cheapest version of all needs no hammer: SwoleBenji (beta build) says if you find a Talon someone else built and left unattended, get in it. It is heat-seeking and he says it one-shots every helicopter except the heavy transport, which makes it fast support XP and good money. Take only one that is clearly abandoned; owners are possessive and some will team-kill you for the seat.

Sources

Why it works

You stop wasting time running around the structure. If the X vanishes entirely you have gone one step too far; step back in. The Beard Guys' refinement is to work toward a far corner of the object, which drags the cluster toward you.

Sources

Step by step

1. Line up on an X.
2. Press and hold left click to start the swing.
3. The moment the hammer head touches the X, release.
4. Press again immediately. Do not wait for the follow-through.

Numbers

Why it works

Holding the button gives you a fixed swing cadence that includes the full recovery animation. Cancelling the recovery lets the next swing start early.

Sources

Step by step

1. If you hear that siren at your FOB, shoot whoever is standing on it. Thirty seconds is a long time.
2. Fortify the FOB terminal itself, not just the perimeter. "Got to protect your FOB."
3. A remote, unguarded FOB is a gift if it falls. AquaFPS films two enemies taking his position along with the SAM and using it against his own helicopters. His group's counter was to claim it back while the occupiers were away.
4. The attacker needs the area secure before starting, because the siren tells you exactly what is happening. Deny them that thirty seconds of quiet.

Numbers

Why it works

IceManIsaac's framing as an attacker: if enemy doors will not open, do not blow them. Find their FOB on the minimap, walk up, and hack it. It is far cheaper than explosives and hands you everything the enemy invested in. DemoMan0351: capturing rather than destroying gives you their mortars and drones.

Sources

Step by step

1. Two-block walls are climbable from any clutter; three-block walls are jumpable from a truck roof.
2. Anything dropped outside a base wall becomes a ladder - crates, vehicles, scenery. Small crates accidentally dropped outside a wall by a helicopter are the classic case. Be careful where logistics drops land.
3. Do not leave obstacles around the outside of your base that enemies can parkour on.
4. Roofs are an unguarded doorway that arrives by air. Enemies parachute onto a roof or land a helicopter on it and drop straight down inside.
5. Doors on every bunker to stop vaulting entry.
6. Barbed wire on top of a climbable surface denies the route more cheaply than building it closed.
7. Test your own jumps while building. "If I can make this jump, the enemy can."
8. Attackers try the free way first. Maplewood mantles onto a base's structures before spending explosives and has jumped into bases many times, because builders never check their own walls from outside.

Numbers

Sources

Step by step

1. Doors auto-close after 30 seconds. Gates never auto-close. This is the single most common way a well-built base is left open, confirmed by jackfrags and RageGamingVideos independently.
2. Doors can be pried open. Gates cannot. The tools are the Halligan bar ($1,100, level 0, durability 5,000, "Ineffective Against Gates"), a crowbar, or the Large Hammer, which has a pry function built into its head.
3. The crowbar lasts four or five doors and Gigabeef calls it badly overlooked: "for getting into defended fobs, it's absolutely invaluable."
4. Peeking: ADS at a door or gate and the prompt changes from Open to Peek. Tap F and it cracks open just enough to see and shoot through. To close it, release ADS first - pressing F while still aiming widens the gap instead.
5. A peeked door can be pushed the rest of the way open by anyone walking into it, from either side. A peeked gate cannot. Prefer gates for peeking positions.
6. Airlocks. Build double doors, not single. RageGamingVideos recommends relying on doors rather than gates precisely because doors self-close. iMaTT builds the same thing independently.
7. A door buys warning, not immunity. Explosives, crowbar and heavy hammer all defeat it, but all three make noise. For a solo operator that noise is the whole value.
8. Improvised blocking: drop an object in front of a doorway to obstruct it, useful when a door has been pried or destroyed.

Numbers

Why it works

The attacker's shortcut: kill a base-builder near their tower and loot their Large Hammer. Builders almost always carry one, and it pries the interior doors of their own base. Airwingmarine notes FOB defenders are usually unarmoured.

Sources

Step by step

1. Overhead cover: doors across walkways with Hescos stacked on top, per Garen's Discord tip, untested on camera.
2. The Indirect Fire Shelter (61 build supply, Large Hammer) - TheTacticalBrit says the Large Hammer uniquely provides buildings that shield your position from enemy mortars and missiles.
3. Internal dividers turning the bastion into grenade traps.
4. Hide the position indoors (iMaTT).
5. Counter-battery - build your own mortar and shell theirs.

Numbers

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

The lock tone alone panics pilots into dumping countermeasures. Flares have a cooldown, so the actual missile arrives with nothing left to defeat it. AquaFPS films pilots crashing themselves in panic before the missile even reaches them. Bonus mechanic: you are credited with an assist just for having a rocket in the air when the helicopter goes down - pilots who crash while evading, or who are finished by someone else, still pay you.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

The crossfire payoff: an enemy pinned at the wire is visible to the near tower and has his back to the tower on the opposite corner.

Sources

Step by step

1. Buy the FOB, the Large Hammer, and two pallets - one supply, one fuel.
2. Load them on a Ural and drive to where you want the drill.
3. Deploy the FOB if you need one.
4. Unload the pallets inside the FOB's build radius. G once per pallet.
5. Look at each unloaded pallet and hold F to move its contents into the FOB inventory.
6. Build the drill with the Large Hammer. Expect a long X-minigame - it is one of the biggest structures in the game.
7. Build out your defences and armament. This is the step people skip.
8. Wait the cooldown once it is ready.
9. Confirm your team is positioned to receive the hotzone, then activate.

Why it works

TheTacticalBrit's version is the same in one line: FOB on or near a tower, heavily supplied, heavily armed and armoured, then activate. Legacy Gaming's prerequisite is explicit: corner bunkers with full sight lines down the external walls, plus walls stacked tall enough to block snipers, before you run your own drills.

Sources

Why it works

That is the whole value proposition: instead of fighting into every tower to assemble the match code, a well-protected base builds its own drill and drags the double-value hotzone onto ground you already hold.

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Large Hammer page two gains Bremer walls; page three has the refuel station, repair station, Drill Rig, Vanguard anti-air gun, mortar, loudspeaker and UAV/Stingray station; page four is the heat-seeking AA missile station (the Talon). The built-in crowbar pries doors, which makes it dual-purpose and makes builders worth killing.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Fortify the mortar pit. It ships with sandbags around it, which is partial cover while you are exposed on the tube. Add Hescos or T-walls, because a mortar's firing signature invites counter-battery and raids. This is the explicit exception to Garen's open-courtyard doctrine: mortar pits and anti-tank pits get walled in, specifically as protection from enemy artillery. Every ranging shot tells the enemy a mortar exists and sends them hunting for it - that is the tactical reason first-round accuracy matters, separate from the ammunition cost.

Sources

Why it works

You can level Support entirely without fighting. Airwingmarine: hang back in the FOB, buy dropped crates out to fill the FOB (this pays support XP), unload the big pallets, build fortifications, and repair them when mortars damage them. "It's honest work and it pays well." Support XP comes from building, repairing vehicles, supplying logistics, and fighting with shotguns - four routes, none of which require good aim. The highest-value version is build-then-operate: build the FOB from the ground up yourself and then personally operate the emplacements you placed in it. You are paid for the construction and paid again for every kill the emplacements get. Splitting the two roles across players splits the income. The fastest start is somebody else's FOB. Geck0: ask in proximity or mic chat who is heading out to build, ride along, and offer to hammer whatever they place; both of you collect XP and cash quickly, and you take the hammer free from the FOB's own inventory. SwoleBenji's new-player guide levels support first for the same reason and pushes straight for the Large Hammer level, which he gives as Support 7 [BETA]; he filmed on the beta build, and Season 1 moved it to Support 8 [S1]. Once there, his no-combat alternative to shooting down helicopters is building Drill Rigs, which he says pay heavily in money and XP and need fuel that you are also paid to haul. LiteralWedgeOfCheese confirms Geck0's pairing from the other side: whoever places a buildable is paid each time a teammate swings on it and again when it completes, so two builders placing for each other both collect twice. Every support weapon also pays support XP, launchers, shotguns and LMGs as well as the hammer and drill, and he rushes the heavy hammer because only it builds the emplacements whose actions pay the big chunks. RageGamingVideos' progression version (same channel as his other video here): build until every last supply is spent, then find another FOB and do it again.

Sources

Step by step

1. No Large Hammer: buy a FOB ($7,500) into a cargo-capable vehicle: enter the vehicle, press B, go to Items, then the Building tab.
2. Make sure you are wearing a backpack bigger than the free starter bag. Move the FOB from vehicle storage into the backpack; it binds to a number quick slot.
3. Drive to your site. Flat ground, inside the zone for your first attempt, with as much usable real estate around the placement point as you can get.
4. Place the FOB. Take the medium hammer out of the FOB's own inventory - it is free and it builds Hesco, gates, doors and Bremer walls.
5. Build with the 1,250 build supply you already have. At 10-14 supply per Hesco block and 14 per door, that is roughly eighty blocks' worth. That is a real perimeter.
6. Right-click to open the build wheel, place the ghost, confirm, then hammer the yellow X's using the animation cancel and the max-reach trick.
7. When you run out, hover your own FOB on the map to confirm the stock, then get a pallet delivered or drive one yourself.
8. With the Large Hammer: buy FOB + Large Hammer + Ural + two pallets. Take one supply and one fuel pallet if you intend to run a drill, or two supply pallets if you are fortifying.
9. Drive to the spot and deploy the FOB.
10. Unload pallets with G - once per pallet - making sure they land inside the build radius.
11. Walk to each dropped pallet and hold F to transfer its contents straight into the FOB.
12. Build the emplacement first if you are alone and time-limited, defences first if you have help.
13. Keep building. Ask on comms for a resupply before you are actually empty.

Numbers

Why it works

Gigabeef notes you can skip buying a FOB entirely by building inside a pre-existing friendly FOB zone, and iMaTT abandons his own site hunt the moment he finds his team's established FOB. If your team already has a decent base in the zone, the cheapest first FOB is somebody else's. Bring a hammer, add doors (iMaTT's pick for highest value per supply spent on a half-built base), and build your emplacement inside their walls.

Sources

Step by step

1. Backpack. Least efficient by a wide margin. A backpack of supplies is trivial relative to a FOB's appetite, and carrying supplies triggers the weight mechanic so you move very slowly. Last resort.
2. Crates. A basic truck carries one deployable supply crate; a Little Bird carries two. Buy the crate into the vehicle, fill it, and kick it out with G. The cost is unloading: each person has to pull items into their own inventory, walk to the FOB, and load them back in one at a time. If you are stuck with crates, drop them as close to the FOB as possible and throw the builders a big backpack. Crates are fragile and have a height and speed limit above which dropping them destroys them.
3. Pallets. The efficient method. One pallet is 1,800 units of a single resource. A pallet dropped inside the build radius unloads entirely with one held button press.

Numbers

Why it works

Large crates move nearly twice the resources per trip. RadioGLHF still prefers pallets, because crates must be emptied into the FOB by hand with large backpacks while a pallet unloads in one interaction. Take crates only when time is not the constraint. TheTacticalBrit names the Ural and the Blackhawk (Z20 Lakota) as the only two assets that currently deploy full pallets, and the Ural has armoured and protected variants. Use the truck cab as extra cargo: with the bed full of pallets you can still load items into the front of the truck via the Items menu - the two spaces are separate.

Sources

Step by step

1. Inside the zone, always. TacticalNed calls building outside the zone the single most common FOB mistake: it does not count toward zone control, your mortars cannot reach most of the map, and everything you do there pays very little.
2. Hidden, outside, but in range. TacticalNed's own advanced version and Gigabeef's: away from towers, somewhere enemies have to search, but close enough that your mortars reach the towers and the contested ground, and positioned under the enemy's helicopter routes.
3. Right on the zone edge. Gigabeef's compromise for the Stingray: you still collect passive zone income while firing outward and staying off the obvious search pattern.

Numbers

Why it works

Recommendation: for your first few FOBs, build inside the zone next to your team - you want the traffic and the shared defence. Once you have the Large Hammer and are building a single-purpose asset (SAM, Stingray, mortar), go hidden and out of the zone, and accept the income hit. Placement on flat ground makes everything downstream easier.

Sources

Why it works

jackfrags demonstrates it on a FOB rich in build supplies but short on fuel, ammo and mechanical. IceManIsaac says he wishes he had known it sooner. Do this before every run: delivering what a FOB does not need wastes the whole trip, and it works as a sanity check even with no voice comms.

Sources

Step by step

1. Anyone can walk up and shoot you off it. The operator is stationary, distracted, tied to the seat, and often tabbed out.
2. Expect organised revenge after two or three downed helicopters. Have an escape (the Ural) or a plan to fight.
3. The final counter is artillery. Once small arms fail and the enemy knows where you are, a static position on a known hill gets counter-battery fire. AquaFPS' run ends exactly this way.
4. Enemies who reach your remote FOB capture it along with the SAM and shoot your helicopters down with it.
5. Pair the SAM operator with a sniper. iMaTT: "what I need is like a sniper. I can sit back, snipe, spot people." The operator is blind to ground threats.
6. Have a teammate lay anti-vehicle mines on the approach roads. Cut off their helicopters and they drive instead.
7. Expect to be hunted the moment you make noise, and treat it as near-certain if you have disabled their mobile spawn vehicle where it cannot be recovered.
8. Do not site AA in view of several towers. SwoleBenji: an emplacement within line of sight of multiple towers loses its gunner to a single enemy sniper on any one of them.

Numbers

Why it works

Either way, the SAM strategy is a two-person job: one gunner, one logistics runner.

Sources

Step by step

1. Build an Indirect Fire Shelter (61 build supply, Large Hammer, per the web table).
2. Dismantle two of the inner Hesco blocks to hollow it out.
3. Drive the spawn vehicle in.
4. Optional: enclose the rest of the shelter. Respawning teammates now appear on top of the roof, like an elevator.
5. If you did step 4, fortify the roof, because every respawn lands there.
6. Vehicle still partly exposed? LiteralWedgeOfCheese joins two Indirect Fire Shelters with extra Hesco walls on top to enclose it fully.

Numbers

Why it works

The parked spawn vehicle's antenna and dish are the weak point that ends a forward respawn (Legacy Gaming). A shelter takes it out of marksman and mortar view. DemoMan0351 and LiteralWedgeOfCheese both say the roof defeats the two things that normally kill a parked spawn vehicle, mortars and UAV drones.

Sources

Why it works

Proximity chat is audible to nearby enemies, so plan in squad chat. There is no squad size limit, and server browsers let you stack a server with as many friends as you want.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Running out of build supplies stops building but does not stop already-built emplacements. If your FOB's job is shooting, ammo is your uptime. A base running both a drill and refuelling burns fuel fast. The wiki confirms the mapping from the structure side: Drill Rig "Requires Fuel supplies in the FOB to activate"; Repair Station "Allows friendly vehicles to repair within the FOB radius providing Spare Parts Logistics supplies are stored at the FOB".

Sources

Step by step

1. Climb the tower and clear it.
2. Go to the ops room, usually one floor above your entry.
3. Hold F on the main console until the capture bar fills. The tower turns your faction colour and you receive one digit of a master code.
4. Post your digit in team chat the moment you hack a tower.
5. Assemble every digit as a team and enter the full code at a keypad on a tower you control.

Numbers

Why it works

Each tower only carries one digit, so it is a team effort by construction and it fails silently if nobody shares. Maplewood's beginner guide describes the same loop from the team's side: either build FOBs and pull the zone toward the towers with drills and codes, or build a FOB out in the open and fortify it to protect a drill.

Sources

Step by step

1. Place the FOB before you unload anything. SwoleBenji: FOB first, then pallets into it, and you are paid at each step.
2. Drive into the FOB's build radius.
3. Stay in the vehicle and press G - once per pallet. Two pallets means two presses.
4. Get out, walk to the dropped pallet, and hold F. The contents transfer straight into the FOB with no manual inventory work. Identical for all four supply types.
5. For supplies in your backpack, open the FOB menu and right-click each stack to move it in, instead of dragging (Wardogs Building Community).

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

The free medium hammer inside means you never have to buy a hammer to start building, and RageGamingVideos argues it lets you skip the Medium Hammer unlock in the Support tree entirely. The 1,250 build supply is deliberately sized so a lone player can stand up one meaningful emplacement with zero logistics.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

jackfrags films the A/B comparison; ignoring the X's "feels so slow". The cost scaling is the mechanical argument for bringing two or three people to any big emplacement.

Sources

Why it works

AquaFPS films a player failing to take a FOB out of a crate for exactly this reason, forcing a teammate to dump his own gear. Once it is in the bag it binds to a number quick slot and you place it from there. Sort the backpack before the run, not at the drop site.

Sources

Why it works

Sandbags stack on a wide variety of surfaces and are the go-to filler for awkward gaps Hesco will not take. And leave yourself a walkable firing line - iMaTT's own post-mortem was "this is not built good. I can't move. Next time I'll just line up sandbags there so I can run across them." Mobility between firing ports matters as much as the cover.

Sources

Why it works

Garen's version starts from your highest point: tower first as the centre, then a surrounding perimeter wall, then bastions and ravelins beyond. One firm rule from both: protect the FOB terminal first, expand second. Everything you built transfers to whoever captures that terminal.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Hedgehogs are the cheapest thing in the game and a handful of them completely blocks a bridge to vehicles until someone brings a hammer or explosives.

Sources

Step by step

1. Perpendicular barbed-wire barricades. The requirement is that you can see over them and the enemy cannot hide behind them. Anything opaque creates the dead space you are trying to remove.
2. Centreline spokes. Run 3 to 5 barbed-wire segments straight out from the centre of your base, like the spokes of a wheel, ideally one from each bastion tip. Garen calls this his favourite and simplest trick, and the single best way to improve a bastion's own defence given that bastions cannot fight outward.
3. Perimeter wire 100-200 yards out. Go well outside the walls, look at the cover and terrain an attacker will actually use - they will not walk the open road your bastions already cover - and wire that.
4. Wire right against your walls still has a job, but only one: denying the dead space at the wall base. It does nothing to shape the approach.
5. Funnels. Wire off the covered approaches to create predictable channels. Never fully seal the channel - leave a deliberate gap, positioned where you want the enemy to emerge, typically in the open between two bastions where they take maximum mutual fire support.
6. Wire maze with dead ends, optional: attackers without explosives hit a dead end and must backtrack under fire.
7. Bulwark compartment: a compartment an attacker who breaches into it cannot easily rotate out of.
8. The line-of-sight audit. Stand outside your own base, walk the attacker's approach, find where your sight lines fail, and plug exactly those spots with wire or barricades.

Numbers

Why it works

Courtyard doctrine: keep the courtyard open and control it with barbed wire and gates rather than interior walls, so your next line of defence can rake the majority of the base and the enemy has nowhere to hide and heal. The one exception: wall in your mortar pits and anti-tank pits, specifically as protection from counter-battery fire, because they are expensive entrenchments.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

His beta experience was being fragged, mortared and artilleried more often inside friendly bases than outside them. Three technical concepts drive everything else: dead space (ground near your base no firing position covers), defence in depth, and standoff distance.

Sources

Step by step

1. Place the sniper turret first.
2. Run the walls up to it so you can walk out into the turret and still see past them.
3. There is a small hump in the middle at this point - remove it.
4. Tall Hesco blocks in the corners: these cover you from sniper fire from every angle except directly behind.
5. Sandbags filling the sides, covering people shooting at ground level.
6. Barbed wire around the outside of the corner to clear the dead zone, forcing enemies into full view of anyone looking over the sandbags.

Why it works

Also: sandbags along the catwalk edges so defenders walking the wall have cover, even if only enough to lie down behind. He gives a specific use - a single sandbag on a wall railing perfectly blocked the sightline from one particular enemy sniper tower.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Plan the position before you commit, and use the free firing range's simulated full map to rehearse layouts at no cost.

Sources

Step by step

1. Bunkers go on corners, never mid-wall. "You put the bunkers on the corners of the walls. Do not put the bunker in the middle." A mid-wall bunker creates dead space on both sides and is easier to attack; a corner bunker gives you the maximum length of wall to shoot down and creates no dead space. Ring corner bunkers with barbed wire.
2. Put doors on all your bunkers to stop enemies vaulting straight into your firing positions. An open bunker is a free entry point.
3. Gates perpendicular to the centreline, so a tower firing position looks straight down the gate's length and can rake it. Do not align gates with the centreline where the enemy can use them to rotate; offset them so your team knows the route and an attacker who gets into the gate area is stuck there.
4. Always cover each gate with a bunker or window slit so you can clear the airlock without opening the gate. If an enemy is standing in your gate lock and your only answer is to open the gate, you have designed it wrong.
5. Double gates / airlock with a bunker beside them. RadioGLHF's reason is specific: tanks tear through gates, so the gates are a delay, and the bunker lets a defender throw C4 onto a tank from an angle its turret cannot traverse to. Put a door on that bunker.
6. A bunker doubles as a staircase up to your wall while also being a covered position overlooking the gate airlock.
7. Inter-layer doors: put a door from the fortress core out onto the rampart of the second layer so defenders rotate between layers instantly.
8. Doors where allies need them. RadioGLHF's third principle: limit enemy movement without restricting your own. His specific case is a teammate arriving with the spawn vehicle or supplies while an enemy runs up to C4 it - put a door on that approach and accept that the enemy might waste C4 on it.
9. Leave the base drivable for your own spawn vehicle. A base your own APC cannot enter is over-fortified. SwoleBenji makes the same point for a new base: keep it roomy enough that trucks can drive in and helicopters can land with people and supplies.

Sources

Sources

Why it works

Two reasons point the same way. Gigabeef: an enemy who finds the SAM does not immediately find the terminal. RadioGLHF: the module's antenna sticks up and blocks your own shots, so put it on the side you will not fire over, ideally the side you are walling against snipers.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Mortars are the biggest threat to a well-built base, and no amount of walls fixes being mortared. The side that establishes mortar coverage first can suppress the other's base indefinitely. SwoleBenji reaches the same conclusion from the receiving end: "if your base is getting nuked, you have to build one of these bad boys and nuke them back." RageGamingVideos (Season 1) turns it into a priority order: the moment the enemy starts building mortars, those are your first target, so they never get to return fire.

Sources

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Numbers

Step by step

1. Three repair tool tiers: Wrench ($150, level 0, slow), Light Drill ($600, Support 1, moderate), Heavy Drill ($1,300, Support 28, fastest). The drills run on battery charge and are reloaded with purchased battery packs via R.
2. Vehicles have separate repair points - each tyre, the engine, the fuel tank. Aim at the component. Engine repair restores overall vehicle life. Identical for tanks and helicopters.
3. A damaged vehicle destroys itself over time if you do not repair it. SwoleBenji's artillery tank broke a fuel line, he neglected it, and it was destroyed outright.
4. Every APC comes with a wrench. Use it to repair blown tracks or a shot-out antenna - a damaged antenna stops teammates spawning in.
5. Build around the parked APC, because its rooftop satellite dish is the weak point. If it is visible from outside your walls one marksman ends your forward respawn.

Numbers

Why it works

The wiki confirms the Repair Station "allows friendly vehicles to repair within the FOB radius providing Spare Parts Logistics supplies are stored at the FOB". Fuel is drawn for refuelling. Pilots can also drop fuel to you by crate. Carry your own repair kit on a logistics run: WarDoggin (Season 1) takes the free backpack, buys a wrench and a fuel can, and repairs and refuels just short of HQ so he does not pay for it at base. He says self-repair and refuelling also pay support XP and cash on top of the saving.

Sources

Step by step

1. Trees, buildings, pylons and pillars break the lock. The launcher needs clear sky.
2. You can place a SAM too high to depress onto low-flying helicopters. Gigabeef found a mountain top and an out-of-zone tower and was not confident the launcher could look down far enough. Test the depression before you commit 601-801 supply.
3. The range is finite. The Talon will not lock helicopters that are very far away.
4. Placement in the FOB zone is otherwise unfussy - throw it down anywhere inside the radius, including right on an edge. No orientation requirement, unlike the sniper tower.
5. Parked planes on the map are scenery. You cannot shoot them down. Do not waste SAM ammo.

Numbers

Why it works

The ambush concept (Gigabeef): the map is large and helicopters are the only good way into the combat zone besides the spawn vehicle, so the enemy flies a predictable straight line from their base to the centre. A SAM in the middle of that line intercepts them. One player alone can do this and cause disproportionate damage. The outside-the-zone variant (AquaFPS): pick a hill with commanding sightlines, drop the FOB and supplies there rather than in the contested area, build a SAM - low enemy foot traffic, still covering their flight paths. With a squadmate, take one tower each for overlapping coverage; everything the enemy fields passes you twice.

Sources

Why it works

A solo build plan therefore needs either surplus resources or fast execution before randoms drain the pot. The counter is AquaFPS': a FOB you drop yourself away from the main effort is yours alone. Placing off the beaten path gives you exclusive use of the emplacement and its ammo. SwoleBenji (beta build) hits the same wall independently: a griefer ate all his build supply. His answer is not to fight over it but to start a new FOB elsewhere near base. The same goes for the hammer: take the medium hammer out of the FOB crate the moment the supplies are unloaded, before a teammate walks off with it, and keep your own hammer at the very bottom of your inventory, where players who do not scroll will not take it.

Sources

Step by step

1. Turn snapping off.
2. Stand on the corner of the structure you are building from and get as close to the neighbouring wall as you can.
3. Inch the placement ghost out until the corner you want lines up, then place.
4. For a firing slit, leave a gap between two Hesco blocks this way and fill it with sandbags.
5. Not worth the fiddle? A sandbag run is as long as two Hescos, so build two Hescos long instead.

Numbers

Why it works

Snapped pieces only meet square, which is what leaves corners you cannot see past. Free placement lets you point a bunker or tower along the wall that needs covering, and LiteralWedgeOfCheese says it sometimes gains a little height too.

Sources

Step by step

1. Wall the base completely with Hesco. No doors, no gates.
2. Put a second Hesco block behind each side entry point, placed so it also blocks line of sight through any crack if the outer block breaks.
3. Need the pallets sitting outside? Dismantle one block you do not need, fetch the supplies, and place a fresh Hesco straight back in the hole.
4. A teammate wants in: break a wall section and rebuild it behind him rather than leaving a door in.
5. If a spawn vehicle or transport helicopter will keep delivering people inside, build a Hesco staircase up and over instead of a door (Wardogs Building Community).

Numbers

Why it works

A door is the cheapest breach in the base, one charge or a pry bar with no charge at all. A Hesco block has far more health and cannot be pried, so every entry costs the attacker several charges, and the second layer doubles that.

Sources

Step by step

1. Place a single Hesco block.
2. Snap an unbuilt Hesco blueprint above it, so the ghost hovers off the ground.
3. Place it. The gap underneath fills with sandbags.
4. Keep snapping upward from that new height.

Why it works

He fired RPGs at the fill without finding a weakness, so it appears to be as strong as a real Hesco block. If it holds up, it is a cheap route to a taller solid wall section. Wardogs Building Community documents the same fill and triggers it on purpose for elevation. The same fill appears when you unsnap a buildable and drop it onto small props or rough geometry that would normally reject placement, so it also gets you building in spots the game otherwise refuses.

Sources

Step by step

1. Click to launch and wait through the climb.
2. You gain control on the descent. You can brake and boost, but boost drains the battery fast - save it until you are locked on.
3. The UAV only detonates if it is locked onto the target at the moment of impact. If the battery dies first, or the lock (the icon turning red as you descend) breaks, the drone is wasted.
4. Gigabeef's steering method: ping the target first, fire out of the zone, then use the wide turning circle to come back around and guide the drone onto the ping.

Numbers

Why it works

Imagine Baggins tested it on camera against both a tank and an artillery vehicle; both died to a single drone. This is the answer for a team with no dedicated anti-armour. Because it turns slowly, firing outward gives you room to swing back over the whole zone. Build the launcher outside the zone to avoid being found, or right at the zone edge if you want the passive zone income - the drone launches high enough to cover the whole combat zone regardless.

Sources

Step by step

1. Two blocks high is decorative, not defensive. Any two-block wall can be climbed using almost any world object - railings, cars, barrels, scattered clutter.
2. Three blocks high is jumpable from a truck roof. This is also the height of the map's stone walls, which means the stone walls are not actually a barrier either.
3. Four blocks is "the castle" and above truck-jump range. Build it by stacking two-tall Hesco on top of two-tall Hesco rather than placing single four-tall blocks side by side.
4. If you are stuck with a three-high wall you cannot raise, place tank traps outside the barbed wire to push vehicles far enough back that a truck roof is no longer in jump range.
5. Do not site your base next to something four blocks tall or higher - a tall adjacent structure gives attackers a vantage straight into you.
6. The stack has a ceiling. Wardogs Building Community puts the maximum at three tall Hescos with three single Hescos on top, measured in the beta build, and expects the developers to rebalance it.

Numbers

Why it works

Corroborating failure mode: The Beard Guys notes that anything dropped outside a base wall - crates, vehicles, scenery - becomes a climbing aid, and that a base only two blocks high with no wire on top is not a base. iMaTT's habit is the practical version: while building, physically try to make the jumps an attacker would. "If I can make this jump, the enemy can." His cheap fix for a climbable ledge is barbed wire on top of it rather than walling it closed.

Sources

Step by step

1. Opening: talk to whoever is building and make build supply the top delivery until their structure is up.
2. Early to mid game: start mixing fuel and mechanical parts into your runs.
3. Mid game: keep checking each FOB, top up whatever it is short of, and once they are in good shape push ammo and meds to the front line.
4. Resupply when a stock is trending down, not when it is already empty.
5. Late game: work out which of two patterns you are in. Either the FOBs swallow every pallet you bring and still never feel stocked, or teams abandon their FOBs to chase the moving circle. Stop feeding a FOB the team has left.

Why it works

The four supply types are needed in sequence. Nothing is built without build supply, drills and repair stations only burn fuel and parts once they exist, and ammo matters most where the fighting is.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Best reading: cooldowns are almost certainly per-drill, not global, and Legacy Gaming's "shared timers" line is either a misunderstanding or is about something narrower (perhaps a cooldown on the hotzone itself after any pull). Weight RadioGLHF slightly higher here: he states a specific tested configuration with a specific outcome, and Legacy Gaming's own follow-up tip presumes the opposite of his own rule.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Either build cost exceeds the FOB's built-in 1,250, so a FOB on its own cannot build a drill. You must bring at least one supply pallet (1,800), plus a fuel pallet to run it. Airwingmarine adds a useful UI fact: the expected duration is displayed when you go to activate the drill, and scales with stored fuel. Legacy Gaming's advice is to always pull for maximum duration when the fuel is there, which puts a standing demand on logistics runners.

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Why it works

Gigabeef: building at a tower forfeits the main tactical benefit of FOBs - that you can put them anywhere. The enemy already knows where your base is, because it is under the most obvious landmark on the map. It is the first place they check, anything good you build there gets shelled by artillery and mortars, and recon players circling the map edges pick off unarmed builders there for easy kills. Towers are "strategically awful places to build drills, mortars or UAVs". He then contradicts himself, and honestly: the genuine upsides are a free drill with its code, natural defensive high ground, and denying the enemy that tower's code. TacticalNed: the towers are purpose-built for FOB placement and are a route to pulling the hotzone; he simply prefers hidden placement himself. Also against, SwoleBenji (beta build): build in the contested middle circle rather than on a tower your team might lose. Building inside the circle multiplies your money and XP and helps the team hold it. His own opening in the same video drives to the nearest tower to start building, so he uses the tower as a destination while arguing against staking the base on it. Also for (LiteralWedgeOfCheese, Tower FOBs): a whole video arguing tower FOBs are better than their reputation; his play-test favourite is a full tower build rather than an open-field star fort (Tower FOB with outer walls). Same creator as the roof-FOB guide, so it strengthens his position, not the count.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Skycoach's per-unit numbers elsewhere match Wardogs Zone closely, which is mild evidence for their scale; PC Gamer's "$1,200-$1,500 for completing build" may be describing a whole FOB rather than a single structure. Helping build up the team's FOB earns back most of the money you spent on the FOB kit, plus a lot of support XP (SirSmoken). Everything done inside the hotzone pays double, explicitly including building fortifications in a FOB. Builders near the zone earn build cash and passive zone cash simultaneously. RageGamingVideos' refinement is worth the extra clicks: buy the supplies yourself and place them into the FOB, because that is what attaches the credit to you - "anyone that uses your ammo you put in directly converts to XP and money for you." Pilots should land and stock the FOB personally rather than just dropping a crate. Gigabeef's break-even maths: one downed helicopter covers the FOB plus materials; two or three cover the Ural and the hammer too.

Sources

Step by step

1. Get into a vehicle that can hold items.
2. Press B.
3. Go to Items (below Ammo and Logistics).
4. Open the Building tab.
5. The FOB is there.

Why it works

Most likely both are true and the vehicle buy menu is the reliable path: the FOB is a 3x2 item that has to end up in cargo anyway. Use Imagine Baggins' route, since it is the one demonstrated step by step on camera. An ATV will not work because it cannot hold items. SwoleBenji's guide, filmed on the beta build just before launch, is a second independent demonstration of the vehicle route: from the free spawn truck, press B at its small crate, open logistics, and buy the FOB plus a load of build supply. He calls it free because you are the vendor; what that means is that the crate stock is already paid for, so you are not charged a second time for taking it out.

Sources

Step by step

1. A large gate at the front.
2. Three airlocks in sequence behind it. His complaint about common bases is that one or two C4 opens everything.
3. Set the second airlock lower than the positions around it: snipers outside cannot see into it, and defenders above shoot down into anyone who got through the first gate.
4. Give every compartment several firing positions onto the same approach: from above, through a gap, from a hide, and prone covering the door. Losing one position must not open the route.
5. Park the spawn vehicle behind the airlock sequence or deeper. If the first two gates fall, defenders rally at the third, which still covers the vehicle.

Numbers

Why it works

Each layer turns a charge into one compartment gained, and the attacker who gets through arrives in a pit your own positions overlook. The spawn vehicle is what the base exists to protect, so it sits behind the most layers.

Sources

Step by step

1. Rush the anti-vehicle mine unlock, Support 25 [BETA].
2. Buy in bulk: he lays $40,000 [BETA] worth in one go.
3. Lay them on roads enemy vehicles actually use, including the approaches to your FOB and the gates you never open (Mine the gates you do not use).
4. Carry on playing. Mines survive your death, so each one keeps working after you respawn.

Numbers

Why it works

A mine is a one-off cost that keeps its vehicle-kill value for as long as it sits there, unlike a launcher round you spend and lose each life.

Sources

Step by step

1. Base course. Four Hescos running straight down each face, extended as far as you need for coverage. Those runs are the walls the neighbouring bastions will cover.
2. Side Hescos. Place Hescos on the flanks so they stick out past the face. "The key to a bastion is putting in these side Hescos here."
3. Second layer. Stack two-high Hesco pieces directly on top of those jutting side Hescos. This raises the shoulders of the firing port.
4. Front wall. A wall of three Hescos across the front of the bastion, tying the two raised flanks together.
5. Firing slit. Place a small (one-high) Hesco between the two two-high Hescos. That leaves a slit at eye level - a genuine shooting port, the modern equivalent of crenellations.
6. Fill the last gap with either a one-high (leaves another firing position) or a two-high (closes it to solid cover), depending on how you want the interior fighting positions laid out.
7. Internal divider. Run a wall across the middle of the bastion, splitting it in half. "This creates grenade traps or the ability to protect you from mortar fire." One frag no longer clears the whole position.
8. Fighting positions. Line the interior with sandbags, including sandbags on top for overhead protection, so shooters have hard cover at each port rather than standing in an open box.
9. Optional overhead bunker. Place door objects across the internal walkways and stack Hescos on top of the doors for overhead cover against mortars and artillery.

Numbers

Why it works

Depth matters as much as cover. Line sandbags along the low Hescos so shooters sit back from the port, the same way a sniper sits back from a window. The deeper you are from the aperture, the less of you is exposed. For machine guns specifically, build very tiny narrow ports, not wide openings.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

This is the mechanical argument against solo towers on the big stuff - and it is separate from the argument about whether solo towers are profitable.

Sources

Step by step

1. Outer layer, facing the enemy: Bremer wall.
2. Inner layer: Hesco, stacked to the height you want.
3. Cap: Bremer again, on top of the Hesco.

Numbers

Why it works

Nothing stacks on top of a Bremer wall, which is why the order is Bremer outside and on top rather than Bremer at the bottom of a stack. The tough material ends up where the charges and shells hit.

Sources

Sources

Sources

Step by step

1. Place a door.
2. Behind it, lay a recon tent on the floor.
3. Put a single Hesco block on each side of the tent, running toward you.
4. Run barbed wire across the tops of those two Hescos.
5. Place a second door at the far end.

Why it works

It is Garen's asymmetric-mobility idea in one corridor. An attacker who breaches the first door is stuck moving slowly in a known lane.

Sources

Why it works

Garen flags this as the most counter-intuitive rule in the video and warns that a team that does not understand the geometry will defend the base wrongly by reinforcing the point of contact.

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Why it works

Lazy placement beside the map's most obvious landmark is the most common reason expensive emplacements get blown up.

Sources

Step by step

1. Build four tall Hesco walls into a 4x4.
2. Add two more tall Hesco walls on the seams at the far left and far right.
3. Place the Vanguard on top of the 4x4 block.
4. Unsnap two more tall Hescos and place them tight against either side of the gun.
5. Put a door at the start of the entry corridor.

Numbers

Why it works

The gunner, not the gun, is what dies first (The SAM operator is defenceless; Silk's attack order). Enclosing the seat removes the ground-level and flank shots.

Sources

Step by step

1. Put a bunker either side of the front gate so defenders can shoot anyone running up with explosives or a vehicle.
2. With snapping on, lay a 4x4 square of Hesco where each bunker goes, projecting out from the wall line.
3. Place the bunker on top of the square, one block off the ground.
4. Build a small Hesco staircase on the raised bunker, jump up and ring its top with sandbags for a second firing level.
5. Walk the outside of the wall. Any spot you can stand in that no position can see or hit is dead space; fix it before the enemy finds it.

Numbers

Why it works

A flush bunker leaves the whole wall face as dead space because nobody can look along it; he walks the camera down exactly such a wall as the thing not to do. One block of height flips the fight at the bunker: an attacker at its foot has no angle into the base, and you shoot down onto him.

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources

Why it works

Gigabeef uses the same fact differently - put the FOB module at one edge of its radius and the expensive emplacement at the far edge, so an enemy who finds the gun does not immediately find the terminal that hands him everything.

Sources

Sources

Why it works

His reasoning, from repeated experience: every previous time he set up anti-air, the thing that killed him was relentless mortar and artillery fire on the roof. He commits to the indoor site while calling it "probably going to be a terrible decision" - and it works. He can still see and engage helicopters, still reaches targets over the stadium, and stays alive far longer than an exposed site would.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Because each FOB ships with 1,250 supply, an individual player can take enough equipment to stand up a SAM site alone. The requirement is that teammates understand what each FOB is for.

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Step by step

1. Do not build AA where your team always builds. Silk's Bakarani example: red plays the church, green plays the shipping-container yard or the towers behind it, and those are the first places he flies.
2. Bring enough hammers to finish the emplacement quickly. The build window is when it is weakest.
3. Get walls and sandbags round the gun position before or while the gun goes up.
4. Once it is built, expect a low pass that kills the gunner first, then a circle strafe on anyone running to man or defend it, and only then fire on the gun itself.

Numbers

Why it works

The emplacement is only dangerous with someone in it, so pilots kill the gunner and deny the seat, and an unfinished one goes down far faster than a finished one.

Sources

Sources

Step by step

1. Loadout: the tier 3 (Large) hammer, a FOB, a gun with a spare magazine and loose ammo, bandages, the best armour you can afford, and build supply in every other slot.
2. Pick the high ground, a hilltop in the area you want to cover. The point of the build is seeing helicopters over the terrain while staying out of sniper view.
3. Place the FOB module on the side you will not be shooting over, because its antenna blocks your own shots. If one direction worries you for snipers, use that side: the module then sits under the wall you raise against them.
4. Line the walls up off the module. A FOB is three Hesco blocks wide; start with a four-block wall that overhangs by one so everything after it snaps on cleanly.
5. Build a wall, a wall, then a recon tower snapped in between them with its ladder facing your own side.
6. Close the hallway under the tower with Hesco rather than a door, so nobody gets into the undercarriage.
7. Raise the outer walls two sets of tall Hesco high, four blocks in all, and double the lower wall with Hesco instead of barbed wire. Any lower and a truck parks, someone hops the wall and takes the FOB.
8. Build no doors. Climb by a one-way ladder, skipping the lowest Hesco because the FOB module works as the first step. Where there is no ladder, build two Hesco stacks side by side and alternate: half-build one, climb it, finish the other, climb that, drop back and finish the first, then add the next block.
9. Place the Talon on top of the finished platform. Put a block behind you, back off to maximum build range so the X stays put, and the slowest build in the game goes noticeably faster.
10. Ring the top with Hesco: the walls on two sides and two tall Hesco blocks in the middle. That crow's nest stops anyone below getting an angle on the operator. Wall off its top on the sniper side.

Numbers

Why it works

Everything comes out of one FOB and one backpack, so nobody has to run logistics. Height does the work walls do on flat ground: the operator sees over terrain, and the four-block walls plus the missing door deny the two cheap ways in, a vehicle hop and a single charge.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

On a new map, spend a round scouting or use the firing range's simulated full map.

Sources

Step by step

1. Place a small Hesco block.
2. Lay sandbags on the ground beside it.
3. Place more sandbags on top of the small Hesco, leaning out over the first row.
4. Repeat on the other side. Shoot out through the slot between.

Numbers

Why it works

Corner walls give cover but no firing position. A structure with windows gives both in one build, which matters when you expect to be pushed.

Sources

Step by step

1. Build the four-Hesco-block square as a platform, sited in a corner of the roof rather than the middle.
2. Raise the outer edge by one more Hesco block for height.
3. Sandbag the arc you do not intend to point the gun at.

Numbers

Why it works

Result: relatively safe from sniper fire with your firing arc still clear. The four-block square is also the general workaround for terrain or rooftops that will not accept an emplacement directly.

Sources

Step by step

1. Loadout: the tier 3 (Large) hammer, a FOB, a weapon with an extra magazine and ammo, bandages, the highest armour you can afford, a parachute, and build supply in every slot left.
2. Park the truck in a ditch or behind cover near the building. A hauling truck parked at the foot of a hidden rooftop base gives it away.
3. Run to the roof first and place the FOB. No wall can go up until it is down.
4. Run back down, load the ammo supplies into the FOB, then go back up and build the defences.
5. For later resupply, jump off the roof with the parachute, fetch supplies and come back up, instead of using the stairwell an attacker would watch.
6. Resupply with ammo pallets rather than crates. A crate has to be emptied into your backpack and carried up the building in trips.

Numbers

Why it works

The first few minutes, on the stairs with no walls up, are the exposed part; he calls them the most nerve-racking of the build. Every step in the order shortens that window.

Sources

Step by step

1. Choose for defensibility first. RadioGLHF picked his apartment block because its raised centre section blocks the view from the tower next door.
2. Confirm no sniper can see your firing position before you commit the build.
3. Place each emplacement, then check it against nearby towers. His missile launcher was visible from the tower, so he moved it back before building on.
4. Cover every gap in the walls. Enemies below will shoot you through cracks.
5. On a tight micro-base, line the first Hesco up so one block overhangs the edge of the footprint, and clip the following walls onto it. Free-placed blocks leave cracks.
6. Expect a second angle. He was later sniped from behind at the same spot and closed it with a couple of sandbags and Hesco walls.
7. When the fort is finished, trust it. Peeking out to check on snipers is the exact risk the walls exist to remove.

Why it works

One blocked sightline is not a safe position; the tower you planned around is rarely the only one that can see you.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Weight this above its channel size. It is the only Season 1-era test of the solo build economy in this corpus, it is a specific claim about a specific run, and it directly addresses the objection. LiteralWedgeOfCheese offers the third framing, and it is the one that survives both: you do not need to profit every match. Under a scoring system that counts bodies in the zone, that is a favourable trade even at a personal cash loss. He watched one well-sited SAM break a Lonestar steamroll that neither other faction had been able to slow.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

The layer height rule: each layer of defence can never be higher than the layer behind it. From the innermost tower corner you must still be able to fire down the length of every outer defence. Break this and your own outer wall blinds your tower. Respect it and you can expand outward indefinitely. The payoff: a defender on the tower corner can hit an enemy on any layer, and an enemy who takes an outer work has gained nothing but a new place to be shot from above. Walk outside your own base and check whether it gets more or less dangerous as you approach. That is the test.

Sources

Why it works

Runners otherwise guess where to drop, and a pallet dropped outside the build radius cannot be moved again.

Sources

Step by step

1. Put the FOB on the roof, not at ground level, so the entire build zone is the roof.
2. Hesco-wall the entire roof perimeter. Full-perimeter Hesco is what removes the sniper angles that otherwise make a tower roof unusable.
3. Put a door on the ladder approach to stop anyone climbing up on foot.
4. Check for ledges beside that door on the ladder side that an enemy could use to get over your walls. That is where attackers are already standing.
5. Build the emplacements. A roof has room for a sniper tower, a drill, and multiple anti-air emplacements together - which means one fortified tower roof can pull the hotzone onto itself and defend the resulting airspace, all inside Hesco.

Numbers

Why it works

He wanted to use an Indirect Fire Shelter for a proper AA bunker but could not get one to place on the tower roofs in that test; the four-block square is the fallback.

Sources

Step by step

1. Place the FOB as close to the tower as possible, on the opposite side from where enemy artillery will come. That lowers the hit rate; it does not make the FOB immune.
2. Before you seal anything, drive a Humvee or Kodiak inside and drop a supply crate full of LMG ammo. Once the airlock is up no vehicle gets in.
3. Build a central airlock between the outside and the tower stairwell, so an attacker through the outer wall still cannot walk to the stairs or the FOB.
4. Fortify the upper floors with Hesco but leave deliberate cracks: bipod weapons rest on the Hesco, and players without a bipod still need a gap to shoot out of the windows. You can build out onto the external platforms through the tower windows.
5. Put sniper towers on the outer walls so the enemy cannot use your own walls as cover, and check how far along each wall a tower can see. Wall off each sniper tower's bottom floor from the outside with Hesco; an open hallway through a tower is worse than an open gate.
6. Layer the outer walls two Hesco walls high wherever that does not blind the sniper towers. Barbed wire is the substitute when supply or time is short, but it adds no height.
7. Put the gate on the side facing your own HQ. Attackers have to walk all the way round to reach it, and your logistics drivers get the short, safe approach.
8. Garage the team's spawn vehicle in joined Indirect Fire Shelters (Park the spawn vehicle inside an Indirect Fire Shelter).

Numbers

Why it works

The tower's floors become the fighting positions and the outer wall, the airlock and the stairwell are three separate layers, so a breach buys the attacker one compartment rather than the terminal.

Sources

Why it works

Those items normally sit behind unlock grinds, so an opening-minute climb is a free shot at gear a new account cannot buy yet.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

Each stage change respawns the X in a new position, so you stop chasing it around the structure.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

It also works very well against Urals - it is a ground weapon as much as an AA weapon. Soulgrot confirms the Large Hammer unlocks both a SAM turret and a heavy machine gun turret that engages helicopters and doubles as ground defence. Silk and Wardogs Building Community call it the "Sea Whiz". SwoleBenji (beta build) backs both halves: it needs manual aim (right-click to spin up, left-click to fire), empties its ammo fast, and is harder to use well than the lock-on Talon. And pointed at walls it shreds a base in seconds: build one just outside a walled base's effective range and one player can strip a builder's entire wall. He says most players do not know this. For a defender, an enemy Vanguard going up within sight of your walls is a priority target, and it is weakest before it is finished.

Sources

Why it works

Its own walls deliberately block fire from its tip, because a close-in attacker can line up on a defender in a slit far more easily than the reverse. Enfilade fire is the whole point: fire that runs parallel to your wall face, catching anyone hugging it. "Towers aren't meant to fire outwards. They should be designed to rake the walls."

Sources

Step by step

1. With the Large Hammer, skip the wall-building route: drop the FOB on a tower or another extreme angle.
2. Get anti-air up as fast as possible and farm enemy helicopters.
3. Build mortars and shell the nearest enemy FOB before its defences are up.
4. Hit the big-ticket items first: the AA they are building, the drill, and the spawn vehicle parked at each FOB.
5. The moment they start building mortars, those become your first target so they cannot fire back.
6. No Large Hammer yet? Take over a mortar a teammate already built and ask the team for ammo runs. He reached the Large Hammer without building anything, on shotgun and hotzone combat XP plus someone else's mortar.

Numbers

Why it works

Helicopters and spawn vehicles are the most valuable kills on the map, and a mortar reaches the parked spawn vehicle that small arms never get near. Killing their mortars first is the race in Mortar superiority is a race.

Sources

Numbers

Why it works

IED mechanics: plant it, call the detonation, wait - each stage is delayed and the delay is significant. Gigabeef recommends practising in the firing range. Unlike a passive mine, an IED needs you present. It stays armed if the planter is downed and revived, and it attaches to structures, vehicles and ground. Other routes: your own L81 mortar; the SPH-2 artillery. Destroying a FOB removes the build radius, the stored items and resources, the mortar ammo and the drone mechanical parts. The vehicle raid: Get Gud with Garen's three-man flex team destroyed three enemy bases by driving a machine gun truck in with IEDs aboard and blowing the structures. Base defence collapses the moment the defenders leave. RageGamingVideos (39 Tips) runs it as an XP route: take early C4 to an enemy FOB, blow the gate or door, and destroy vehicles, players and structures inside. You rarely get near a vehicle with C4, but about four charges on a spawn vehicle is the jackpot.

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Numbers

Sources

Sources

Sources

Sources